Karen Carpenter might have been on to something there, but we don’t have to ride out that sentiment every single day of this rainy season.  Mondays though, that’s for another discussion.

I’m not sure what exactly it is about the rain that makes us want to stay curled up in bed, sleeping or just nuzzled and cocooned, but there must be pillows or a blanket involved, a warm beverage (hot chocolate or a spiced tea) a book or movie, and if there is a furry animal around all the better. I’m sure Psychologists attribute some of this desire with that of being in the womb, but that’s not the direction we’re going with this article.

Photo: from drunkenpoets.com

However tightly set in the fetal position we might be under a fluffy comforter on these rainy mornings, when the alarm goes off, we have to get up and get ready for work, unless you’re self-employed or independently wealthy, and in that case we’re just not talking to you right now.

Yes; bitter.

For the rest of us, however, we slam the alarm, hoping we didn’t break it, and peel ourselves off the suddenly heavenly mattress (never knew you had such a comfortable bed did you?) then wonder how many cups of coffee will be needed to get you through the day.

It just seems the natural order that rain equals lower energy, a slower gait and a direct line to melancholy thinking. All we seem to focus on is “when is this day going to be over?”

Though this rings true, might we suggest a different approach? Trust us, we here in the Studio feel the effects of the rain, cloudy skies, traffic that gets infinitely worse with every droplet (ok, that we don’t understand) and the desire to randomly nap throughout the day. But we’ve decided to rally and find ways, albeit small, to enjoy this season.

This weather makes one think differently; don’t fight it, go with it. Allow the calm to help you see a different angle of the project you’re working on. Sip your hot tea more slowly and do something as seemingly insignificant as listening to the rain. Yes, turn the i-pod off.

Rainy weather somehow makes us turn inward, and it’s more than merely having to stay indoors; there is something calling us to slow everything down from the fast, sunny, pace we usually find ourselves in, and perhaps take inventory. Use this seemingly gloomy season allowing it to direct you into a more romantic way of thinking.

Yes, romantic. We’re not talking hearts and daisies, we’re talking about paying some attention to things that have been put in the “I’ll do it later” pile.

It’s a hassle to head out to a club (even though we’ll give you tips on how to look good in this weather) but try staying in, pour a glass of wine and finally dive into that book that’s been on your reading list forever. Move some furniture around to freshen up your living space, go through your music collection and have some fun rediscovering an old favorite, or get rid of some that just doesn’t do it for you anymore.

Photo: Or maybe sing in the rain ala Gene Kelly? Image from classicmoviestills.com

What most of us probably find disturbing about this season, is it takes away a lot of our usual and readily available distractions that prevent us from tending to ….well, ourselves.

Yes, we’ll most likely still slam the offensive alarm clock, craw towards our first (of many) cup of coffee, but after that, don’t feel defeated by the rain and the grey, take it as a reminder that every living thing needs it to grow, and that includes you.

{S}

Photo: compiled from v-shopaholic.blogspot.com and philippinefashionweeklive.com

So we have taken a break from our Scene and The Studio to let you really focus on Philippine Fashion Week and all it would demand of you. There was a lot to wade through and we’ve chosen collections we think are either on to something, were completely original (and wearable) or designers who had a unique perspective or take on a current trend.

Now, we’ve noticed that with each new Fashion Week, there seems to be three different responses to the introduction of new trends, which, naturally tend to do away with old ones.

One: there are those who toss out everything and start afresh, anxious and eager to embrace the new silhouettes, colors and cuts. This group sheds their previous fashions like a snake does its skin and heads onward without the slightest glancing back.

The second group is slower to act, looking over dominant trends and ways in which those trends might fit their style; they do more of a “picking over” and go through more of a fusion process than being completely reborn.

Thirdly, and I daresay this just might be where most of the majority are, find the entire process overwhelming, an upset, and a frivolous intrusion, even. It isn’t that they don’t care about appearance or style (to a point) but all the changing seems so bothersome and unnecessary.

Photo: happy fashionistas from insidetheloop.tumblr.com

Those of you who belong to the first group, and you know who you are (your energy and maxed out credit cards tend to give you away) we love your enthusiasm, but would tell you to take a breath before diving in head-first. Also, be aware that the runway is a stage where designers are not merely showcasing their collection, they are telling a story, creating an image and persona in heightened form. What you must do (and what we here at {Style Studio} try to help with) is to take that look and see how it translates in real life. That head-to-toe shimmery rust outfit of Chris Jasler’s (complete with heel-less shoes, spike accessories, fingerless gloves and black bejeweled sunglasses) might have brought new meaning to your life when you saw it on the catwalk, but deconstruct the look and see how it might work on your body in the real world.

Those of you in group two, we think you’ve got this fashion thing down, but once in a while, err on the side of “this might be fun to try” rather than “that is just not me.” Allow yourself to play a little and make it a goal to surprise yourself once in a while.

Photo: Miranda Priestley giving the "Cerulean" monologue in The Devil Wears Prada, from filmexperience.blogspot.com

Now those of you in the third group, yes polo- shirt-and jeans-are-my-(safe)-uniform person, we are talking to you. Don’t get all defensive just yet, because we understand where you are coming from. From your point of view there are other, many other, things that deserve your attention and fashion just isn’t one of them. Well, be careful when you so quickly discount something that you require every single day. It is a good thing to develop an awareness of the changing trends and fashions, because they are indicative of so many other changes taking place not only locally, but internationally. You’re probably thinking, “whoa there, we’re talking about a shirt, not a government movement,” but every bold step fashion has taken was in response to, or demanding for, some kind of social change. Women cutting their hair and refusing to wear stockings in the 1920’s (the same year women were given the right to vote) was an all-out demand for freedom and gender equality. Even having Barong Tagalogs made less sheer or wearing an undershirt with them speaks out, (the Spanish made their Filipino workers/slaves wear them nearly see-through to make sure they were not concealing weapons). Women wearing pants, men allowed to wear patterns previously thought to be “feminine,” these shifts and expressions matter and should be noted.

We are not encouraging you to subscribe to every blogger-turned-stylist-turned-designer out there, but creating an awareness within yourself then develops a curiosity, and we’ll venture that will positively affect other areas in your life that just might be as—stagnate—as your style.

Photo: from fashion.freezer3.net/no-fashion-victims

Again, we realize it can be overwhelming, so to help you along, this week is “Fashion Week Hangover” where we clear the air, allow things to settle, and give you an idea of what to be aware of, and what, just maybe, go on and try.

Photo: edited from blindgossip.com

We know Mothers’ Day has just passed, but we couldn’t let it go by without asking a few designers how their mothers influence their style, and if there was one item they wished to be passed on to them.  Since we are focusing on men this week, we thought we would stick with them for the time being. We hope this inspires you.

Noel Crisostomo

“My mother used to sew clothes for her eight children and I’m second to the youngest. I remember my mom helped me to sew my first pair of pants at age 10.  She was a definite influence just my watching her create clothes.”

Regarding an item? “There were these shoes she would always wear when going to my dad’s business parties. They had clear, fiberglass heels that I thought ‘those are totally fashion!’ I don’t want them to wear (he’s not into that), but just to keep as they are beautiful and have good memories attached to them. I want to put them in the archives.”

Jerome Salaya Ang

“At an early age, my mom would always tell me how fascinated she was with clothes and garment construction. It was actually her dream to become a designer; she used to make her own dresses. It’s kind of sad because her dream never became a reality because between raising us [her kids] and handling the business she never had the time. I have three brothers and a sister, but because I was the youngest, my mom always had me tag along to her dressmaking classes because there was no one to watch me. The whole thing just fascinated me somehow.

What he wants passed down to him: “Maybe her strength as a person. She never really shows her fears and always manages to overcome every situation without doubting God.”

Derick Hibaler

“My fashion statement is actually a lot like my mother’s. She only cares if the clothes and looks are original, not if it’s branded or not, as long as she maintains her own style. Because I’m lean, she told me to stick to fitted jeans and slim fit tops, like James Dean.”  (And they look good.)

“I learned how to hand stitch as early as grade 4 because of my mother and grandmother; they would always put stuff together just from what was available. I would steal patches and hand sew them onto my shirts, kind of like patch applique. We also lived near Subic, so I was exposed to foreign brands and their look and fit. From my mother is where I also learn to love fedoras, and now I collect them.”

Chris Jasler

“Both my parents worked with textiles, denim in particular, and my mother designed Bridal gowns. She was very particular in teaching me how to use the sewing machine and the mechanics of the whole thing. I was very involved, even delivering orders.

I do have this pair of scissors my mom gave to me. They are vintage and all black now, I don’t use them anymore, but she used them to cut out my first pair of jeans when I was 8 or 10. I keep them with me. Since denim is my medium as a designer, they mean so much.”

Honestly, you might think it’s kind of obvious that a mother would influence a designer, but we’d like to challenge you to look at your vocation. What influence has your mother had in the vocation or course you ended up choosing, where you ended up living, who your specific crowd is, or what you value. Mommas are a powerful force and I’ll bet she had quite a hand in what you’re doing. Care to share? Or even disagree? We’d like to hear from you.

{S}

Photo: Edited from media.redgaloshes.com

Who wears the pants in the relationship?
You or your culture?

When we hear that question, “who wears the pants in the relationship” or the statement, “oh, I see who wears the pants in that relationship,” what is really being asked or implied is, not who literally wears a pair of trousers or slacks, but who maintains the higher degree of power, who is really in control?

If you know your history, you would know that pants had to work their way up the fashion ladder to be considered better than poor farming wear. Men of any distinction wore tights, yes, white tights with bulging codpieces (thanks to Henry the VII).

Women tried in earlier times to don a very full type of “pant” that were called “bloomers.” Attempts to make these popular were mocked by newspaper cartoonists without mercy, depicting women who wore them slowly turning into men, smoking in public (which women were not allowed to do until the 1920’s ) and losing the nature of their very gender.

This social prejudice, though mostly directed toward women, has affected men nearly as greatly. Men have been bound to adhere to strict rules of fashion if they want to be regarded not only as men, but as a masculine one. Too many accessories, an attachment to textured fabric, floral patterns, the desire to carry a satchel and you just might be voted off macho island.

Why are we so afraid that what we place on our bodies will change not merely our appearance, but our very selves, our nature and relation to and expression of our sex?

Who does society regard as the greater threat: the liberated, trouser-wearing woman, or the colorful, eclectic and adorned man?

Note here that I have said nothing about sexual orientation, and am not going to, but pause here and reflect what you were thinking, or assuming. It’s ok, you’re not alone there. We are all guilty of running to labels and organizing people into them.

Labels dictate our behavior because they write scripts for us of how we should react, what jokes we think we are allowed to make, how seriously we take that person; we do not think we have to be so aware (and sensitive) because we are acting within the perimeters of what that labels allows.

Another question I’d like to put out there,  is there such a thing as non-gender attributes? Or does everything have a bent of being classified as male or female, masculine or feminine?

From colors to shades of mood and aggression, the more we strive to categorize or fit things into their respective “boxes” the more they flip themselves or break open, again, especially if you know your history. So much of what we direct as either masculine or feminine has little to make it stick except the context we find ourselves in.

Men of affluence wore bejeweled necklaces and thick eyeliner in ancient Egypt, warriors of Scotland wore kilts (that hardly look different from contemporary girl’s school uniforms), royalty of France in the time of King Louis (all the Louis) wore high heeled shoes embellished with bows and buckles and would put todays be-dazzler to shame.

The struggle here, the real issue, does not come down to a battle of the sexes, it comes down to a battle of cultures, sub-cultures, tradition versus progress, whose words we believe and how we respond to, or adjust ourselves, and our fashion, accordingly.

With that in mind, who wears the pants in your relationship, you know, the one you have with society?

{S}

Photo: Edited from discovermagazine.com

We all want to believe in our own uniqueness; that our tastes and inclinations are truly our own. We’ll give some allowances to how we were raised, the temperament and method of our parents, our education, the culture, or the influence of multiple cultures we were exposed to, but for the most part we want to believe we decide what is beautiful to us.

But what if it really isn’t in our power to decide that?

On the topic of beauty, there is far too much to say, and much has already been said and by greater minds. So for this Scene and the Studio, we wanted to create a discussion by presenting you with some quotes, and getting your reaction to them.

Some we agree with, some we don’t (but we aren’t going to tell you which is which) but most have a valid point.

We’d like to hear your opinion.

“No object is so beautiful that, under certain conditions, it will not look ugly.” –Oscar Wilde

“Love of beauty is taste. The Creation of beauty is art.” –Ralph Waldo Emerson

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and it may be necessary from time to time to give a stupid or misinformed beholder a black eye.” -Miss Piggy

“When you look closely people are so strange and so complicated that they’re actually beautiful.” –Anonymous

“Comparison is the thief of joy.”-Theodore Roosevelt.

“You can never be overdressed or overeducated.” –Oscar Wilde (again)

{S}

It really is amazing and curious how things change, or evolve, rather, and all these prints and patterns have me thinking how amused their creators would be if they saw they are not only still around, but now considered items of luxury.

Animal print was not always the sexy and bold statement that it is now. Think of it, cavemen (and women) wore it to cover their naked bodies and utilize as much of their kill as possible. Basically what you couldn’t eat or use as a tool or weapon, you draped around you.

A couple weeks ago we talked about the battle denim went through to not only be socially accepted, but prove it could be worthy of a design house (Versace jeans? That is quite a journey from the farm).

Tribal prints are everywhere this season, and that excites me almost more than the return of vintage swimwear. Almost. Though nearly every design has a history behind it, here is the chance to either dig into one’s own culture, or explore another’s without appearing gauche or like an overbearing member of Greenpeace.

There is an elegance to how they have become so popular, and how designers are incorporating them with modern silhouettes and pairing them with complementary, but minimal pieces.

This is an anthropologists dream come true, as (we hope) people will not casually sweep up the trend without recognizing the rich history, and even mythology, accompanying each piece.

Consider some of the African prints that are out. Africa is a big continent, so let’s look at West African prints. Some tribal prints that became popular in West Africa were the product of Dutch manufacturers trying to make a cheaper version of Indonesian Batik print (the machine malfunctioned and there were imperfections and inconsistencies that Batik purists couldn’t abide). West African women preferred the fact that the “imperfections” meant no two panels of fabric were the same and the prints took off.

But if we go even further back, we note that many of the patterns were the Dutch and British interpretations of the Indonesian design.

We look at many prints as “tribal” but most of them are the physical representation of cultural entanglement, a little inspiration and a lot of evolution.

Currently we are seeing ancient Aztec designs on the runway of Valentino, Native American Indian patterns in BCBG Max Azria, and here at home, the Ifugao designs are trekking down the mountain and into our closets to be paired with heels and jeans. (Check out our Life. Style. section)

For many of these tribes, the design’s purpose was rarely fashion-related. Each color or symbol, bizarre or simple stitch, had a meaning attached to it. They were donning themselves with a story, their story. Even today in Nepal, tribes weave patterns on blankets and articles of clothing as a way to tell their family or tribe’s history.

The reason for this brief history lesson? All these patterns represent more than a trend. We are wearing pieces of history; stories that belonged to others are now on our back, literally. This is a beautiful moment in fashion history and it deserves to be recognized, and given some respect by being knowledgeable of its origin.  It is also a perfect time to look back at your own history. Where is it you come from and how do you tell your story, express where you’ve been and how it has changed or marked you? The world isn’t getting smaller; we are simply finding a way to close the distance. This season, fashion is helping us do that not only from country to country, but from our collective past to our progressive present. {S}

Photo: Seashore texture from imageafter.com, jumpshot picture from picship.com

{Style Studio} hopes you guys are enjoying our The Scene and The Studio column as much as we love writing it. We want to let you know there is an intellectual, philosophical and cultural side of fashion that, unfortunately, doesn’t get showcased as much as it should. We’re determined to change that little by little.

This week, we have a guest writer for The Scene and The Studio. We asked Lizanne Cua (who is our Profiled designer of the week) if she would be so kind as to give us a few thoughts having to do with our “Comfortable Style” theme. Since she is the knit jersey queen, we asked her to go beyond the idea of comfortable dressing, to comfortable being. She works with a fabric that moves and clings almost like our own skin, and can be used as a canvas to either keep bare or accessorize and embellish how we see fit. So we asked her to take it to the next level, and this is what she gave us. Enjoy!

In A State of Flux

by Lizanne Cua

Fashion {and life} are in a constant state of flux.  We address this by adapting to the tides of change as the occasion warrants it. Our capability to adapt to the cycles of change is reflected in our ability to ‘dress up and down,’ and manage the ebb and flow of our moods and feelings.

Fashion {and life} do not merely traverse a straight line from past to present to future, but move spherically, and we try to catch all the nuances the present brings while referencing the past, and leaning towards the future.

We ad{dress} this through rising to certain or specific occasions by dressing “up” when we are in a more ebullient state of mind, or when we want to try on different personas. When we are in a more indifferent or relaxed mood, we allow ourselves to dress “down”.

Fashion {and life} can overwhelm us with its wonderful complexity, and it can be a wonder that with our having so many facets, angles, and moods, we are not lost in its chaotic embrace.

How do we maintain our core and center ourselves so that we do not get swept away by the frantic and compelling ephemerality that is fashion? How do we keep our focus so that we do not run around in circles and get lost or left behind in the pace?

Short of a monastic retreat or zen meditation {which are not bad ideas}, we have to occasionally pause and reflect on who we are and where we are going. Ground yourself and go from there. 

Centering ourselves begins with knowing who we are or at least explore who we are and who we want to be. This gives us enough information to prioritize and style ourselves accordingly, allowing for the possibility of adapting to trends while at the same time not losing sight of who we are.

Doing so is about having staples in our wardrobes: ensembles that are timeless, classic, and comfortable. They are like our core values, defining us and accompanying us as we navigate the terrain.  We then move forward by celebrating our uniqueness {and quirks} through statement pieces; outfits and accessories are an undeniable and distinct declaration of who we are.

We dress up and down {and in between} as our whims dictate, showing the world who we are, what we are about, and what’s important to us at a given point; how we look everyday is a walking  “status update”.

That being said, outfit selection should not always be a random indulgence of our fancies.  We should be aware of what we add in and what we take away from our ensemble. The same should be said for our lives.  By adding in only what is pertinent and relevant and disregarding background noise, we learn what is truly important to us and give it due attention; while we take away the peripherals and the distractions, we uncover the relevant matters and our true essence, our true voice, which continuously undergoes redefinition.

Fashion {and life} is a delicate balancing act which is enthralling, thrilling, and perhaps a bit unnerving at times—yet can be immensely enjoyable every step of the way. {S}

There are a lot of things we equate with being comfortable with ourselves, but no phrase really hits the mark as well as “like your favorite pair of jeans.” They may not be the latest cut, or have the shade of the most current trend, they might even be miles away from what is currently in style, but they fit, they move with your body like nothing else does, and they’ve travelled a long road with you.

This particular pair of jeans isn’t just comfortable, they are comforting, allowing you to pair whatever shirt, jacket, shoe, bag and accessory with them, because they will, somehow, make it all fit together.

They might be ripped, torn (not by style choice but by living through quite a bit) or they might have paint stains, food stains, other stains we don’t remember what they are or how on earth they got there, but instead of making them unfit for wear, all this history makes them all the more precious, all the more you.

It takes some of us quite a while to feel like we fit in our own skin. We grow and stretch as we learn, we shrink back when hurt or disappointed; we go through phases of wanting to be adventurous and risky, asserting who we are and what we stand for. Then we learn more, either about ourselves or the world or both, and we retreat and reassess and reconfigure how it all is supposed to fit together.

Perhaps one of the reasons we cling to our favorite pair of jeans is because they have a similar story as we do, or did growing up. They didn’t appear on the scene in the most glamorous of ways, and they weren’t exactly invented for the sake of fashion; they were made for the pioneer, the worker, laborer; the person who needed something of endurance and comfort to help them accomplish the work or task they set out to do. Not to stretch a metaphor, but isn’t that how most of us feel growing up, or in any transitional state? And in such a state, we need the closest thing on our bodies not to constrict us, but move with us, not to be as fragile as we might feel at times, but to have some endurance, giving us a little protection.

Jeans also weren’t readily accepted when they wanted to make the leap from working class to middle class; they were thought of as a rebellious statement, and were banned from schools, and said to be the lazy downfall of fashion. But while the polished elite snubbed denim, it was heartily embraced by the oh-so-upsetting-rock and roll movement. This was the voice of the ignored, the dissatisfied, those craving artistic expression who wanted to be heard, and taken seriously…the youth.

Now things are bit easier for denim. It has paid its dues, proven itself and truly fought to be inextricably integrated into our lives. There is designer denim, colored denim, bejeweled and stitched and patterned. But whatever transformation or metamorphosis it takes on, it will always have its history of struggle.

With a story so parallel to what each of us experience, it really makes sense how we can become so attached to an article of clothing.  After all, Jeans took a while to grow into their own “skin,” so perhaps that’s why they are so gracious to allow us to do the same.

We do want to encourage you to try out some of the really creative and fun colors, cuts, and styles of denim this season, as we are truly witnessing a significant progression of the blue jean. That’s the beauty of your “old faithful” pair, they allow you to constantly change and experiment and grow into who you want to become, while still celebrating who you are. {S}

If you are old enough to remember the old Skittles commercial with the “taste the rainbow” tagline, you are probably feeling a bit nostalgic. If you survived the color clashing and neon war which was the 80’s, you are probably feeling a bit scared.  There is an overwhelming amount of color going on around us, and the response to it varies greatly. Some want to indulge, and some want to run away and hide, hoping the color wheel wave will soon subside and this season will have only been a  Technicolor dream.

Instead of tasting the rainbow we are now encouraged to wear it, and this has the potential to be messy, chaotic, obnoxious and shocking.

Or, it could be really, really fun.

Think of the last time you had the audacity to pair shocking pink with a vibrant turquoise and then throw in a streak of tangerine, just because. For many of us, the last time we were this bold with color is when we were in our grade school art class. Given a whole box of crayons or finger paints, we just went for it, excited at what we might create, and if we made a mess of it our teacher still gave us a gold star and our parents still put it on the refrigerator door.

When we were allowed to dress ourselves up, we rarely matched because the thought of a bright green polka dot top and yellow striped skirt just seemed to work (sounds kind of cute now, actually).

We are not born cautious of color, we learn to be.

What should be an avenue of expression turns into a selection of labels. If Yellow is your favorite color, then surely you must be happy all the time (smile, would you!). If you are always drawn to Red, there must be something exciting and scandalous about you, if you are a woman and love grey then you must be fairly dull or studious, and if you are a man who loves gold or purple or pink…well then there is a category you will quickly be put into. (Though historically, pink was originally used for boys because it was a watered down form of red, considered a fiercer, more powerful color.)

Women are given a little more freedom to choose their preferred color palette, but most men, as they age, retreat to blue and grey and black to keep things simple.

Though there is nothing wrong with a minimal approach or a simple style, take a moment to consider what is keeping you in your color boundaries.

How many times in your life has your favorite color changed? What was it when you were 5? 16? 24? What is it presently? Have you ever lied about what your favorite color is? Why?

The existence of, and ability to see color is an extravagant gift, and this season affords us the opportunity to make full use of that gift, men and women alike.  You don’t have to go all out and look like that grade school oil painting, but there are ways to ease into incorporating a few new colors into your wardrobe (see our color blocking tips under our Life.Style. section). By trying this you are, albeit ever so slightly, reawakening that curious nature which is one of the defining aspects of childhood.  You will be amazed how such a seemingly trivial thing like playing with color again, can open you up to being curious, and possibly more adventurous, in your approach to other areas in your life.

Be open and begin however you can, even if it starts with buying a bag of Skittles for inspiration.

{S}